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Writer's picturePascale Marceau

Mt. Hunter | Alaska

Updated: Mar 15, 2020

Winter Firsts

Mount Hunter (14,573 ft) is the steepest and most technical of the three great peaks in Denali National Park. It is also known as the most difficult 14,000-foot peak in North America.


The four-person team will attempt two separate winter ascents from Mount Hunter’s south side. 


1 – Accomplish the first solo winter ascent by Dupre

2 – Three-person team to summit making it only the 2nd winter ascent ever; with Pascale attempting to be the first woman to climb Mt. Hunter in the winter

Mt. Hunter. The Ramen couloir (not showing) joins the West Ridge at right of center.

The proposed climbing route is guarded against entry by a massive icefall.  For safety through this area, Dupre has chosen an experienced four-person team to negotiate the gapping crevasses and ice blocks.   Once through the icefall, the climbs will begin from advanced base camp (ABC) at 7,900 feet. The crux of the climb is a 3,300 foot, 50 to 60-degree couloir called the Ramen. 


Dupre will climb solo from ABC to position himself at 11,200 feet and with good weather make a push to the summit. Returning back to the team at ABC, the remaining trio will then push onto the summit.

DATES 

February 28th – March 21st, 2019 (23 days) Target is to summit and complete both climbs before March 21st, the end of winter.

Dupre and Marceau during a spring attempt of Mt. Hunter in 2016


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